New York Fashion Week is Finally Starting to Catch on to Size Inclusivity
Photo credit: Gianluca Russo @2019
Pushes for size inclusivity in fashion have not gone unnoticed in recent years. And yet, while mainstream retailers seem to be catching on, Capital “F” fashion houses are still far behind. This is undeniably true at Fashion Week when in seasons past, body diversity was nearly nonexistent, both on the runway and in the seats. This season, however, marked a pivotal change: Not just for size inclusivity, but for normalizing plus-size bodies in fashion.
In years past, body diversity at Fashion Week was almost exclusively found at plus-only runways, like when 11 Honore or Loft showed. Chromat and Christian Siriano, although not plus-exclusive, also became well-known and praised for incorporating a diverse spectrum of sizes into their shows. But time and time again, they were the only ones leading the change: Major designers at New York Fashion Week still refused to change their ways, clinging as closely as possible to societal norms of beauty.
Photo credit: Gianluca Russo @2019 Chromat https://chromat.co
So when the schedule was released for Fashion Week this September, I didn’t have high hopes: Thankfully, Chromat, Siriano, and Tanya Taylor were showing this season, with Taylor's line going up to a size 22. I was grateful that some representation would be present, but upset that more diverse brands wouldn’t be showing this season.
Chromat’s show was a stunning celebration of true inclusivity: models of all sizes — including Hunter McGrady, Denise Bidot, and Tess Holliday — races, and genders strutted the runway, and the energy in the room was truly infectious. Attendees couldn’t help but verbally shoutout their praise and love for both the designs and the models, transforming the Chromat show from a runway into a celebration. In the seats, too, diversity was well-represented with attendees of all sizes, shapes, genders, races, and backgrounds present. The same went for Siriano, who once again showed a gorgeous collection featuring multiple diverse body types.
Tanya Taylor’s presentation lacked a little as it pertains to size-inclusivity: Two plus models were included, but appeared to be on the smaller end of the size chart both seemed to be a size 12, which is a missed opportunity considering the collection is sold up to a much larger size. Still, though, it was progress, and Taylor’s efforts are to be truly commended.
Honestly, I thought the body diversity at NYFW would end there, but I was wrong!
Cynthia Rowley, Veronica Beard, Rebecca Minkoff, The Row, and Tommy Hilfiger — five major brands — all expanded their size ranges during Fashion Week to the surprise and delight of many. In fact, a study conducted by InStyle during NYFW found that a third of designers who showed this season had increased their size ranges since last season, which was made apparent on the runways as well. However, this change didn’t come without some drawbacks too.
“Famously inclusive labels Prabal Gurung and Brandon Maxwell appear to have decreased their size range from last season, due in large part to their collaborations with plus-size brands like Lane Bryant and 11 Honoré ceasing production between Fall/Winter 2019 and now,” wrote journalist Tess Garcia who reported on the study for InStyle. “Christian Siriano almost fell into this category but launched a J.Jill collection on September 12 that goes up to a size 28 — the same range as an 11 Honoré line he put out last season, which is still available but now only stocks up to 26.”
In addition, Glamour found that 94 curve and plus-size models were used during New York Fashion Week, which they reported was an increase from last season (for spring 2019, they reported that 72 curve and plus models walked).
Although there is still a long way to go, this season was a huge step forward in terms of body inclusivity in fashion. What’s perhaps most important, however, is the normalization of curve and plus bodies on the runway. While it’s great to have shows like 11 Honore last season that are plus-exclusive, it still separates fat bodies from straight-size ones in fashion. What designers like Tommy Hilfiger were able to do was seamlessly incorporate diverse body types into their shows without ‘othering’ anyone — proving that everybody deserves a place in fashion.
Hunter McGrady
A major downfall, however, is in regards to who is invited to these shows. Plus-size people are often only invited to attend size-inclusive shows, which, although admirable, is not helping to normalize body diversity in the fashion industry overall. In fact, at one Italian designer’s show this season, I witnessed only one plus-size influencer in the audience (she informed me that the designer — who only showed straight-size models — custom designed a dress for her). If the designer had the ability to design for plus sizes, why not include that on the runway?
In addition, street style remains largely not inclusive of plus bodies. Photographer Lydia Hudgens has done a great job at putting together a plus-exclusive street style gallery for InStyle — this is the third season that she’s done this — but other galleries feature a token one or two plus fashionistas. In fact, influencer Kellie Brown shared on Instagram that photographers would even put their camera down and ignore her when she walked by, but they would be happy to shoot straight-size influencers in less inventive outfits.
There’s a lot of progress to be made when it comes to size inclusivity at Fashion Week. In fact, we’re only in the beginning stages of that movement. But seasons like this one show that more and more designers are not only hearing calls for body diversity, but are beginning to take action. For the plus-size community, that is all the motivation we need to keep pushing forward and fighting for active change within the industry.
Gianluca Russo is a freelance writer published in GQ, Glamour, Teen Vogue, NYLON, InStyle, Fashionista and more. To read more of his work, connect with him on Twitter and Instagram @G_russo1 or visit https://www.russog.com.
Recent work includes: Nylon https://nylon.com/author/gianluca-russo Claiming Space: 26 People Talk Being Fat And Working In Fashion
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